Feminist Makeup Tutorial (PARODY)

Let's start by reiterating the fact that this video is a PARODY. Of both makeup tutorials and feminist extremism. Personally, I thought it was insanely hilarious and had to share. If we can't laugh at ourselves, what's the point? "Your eyeliner should be so sharp you could kill a man." Love it!

Rick Owens Spring 2014 Womenswear Show Paris Fashion Week

Designer Rock Owen's has made headlines by shirking models for his Paris Spring 2014 Womenswear Fashion show and using stomp-artists instead. While I applaud his decision to try something new, I have to ask... why do they all look so angry? Every face looks like the women are on the verge of murder. I'm sure it's a facet of the dance style. But honestly? I wish they'd smile.

Manicure Chipped? Try This Fun Solution

Don't you hate it when you're really enjoying a nail polish and the tips start to chip? Even with daily doses of top coat, some polishes are destined to fall off in flakes. If you're like me, you'll do anything to stretch your manicure a day or two in order to enjoy a really beautiful color, texture or finish. And now you can!

I put a strip of scotch tape straight across my nails, near the top. Leaving just enough room to give any color you add a real chance to make an impression. Then I used a complimenting lighter color, in this case a soft mint shade from Julep, and painted over the chipped tips of my nails. The result? A fun french manicure that should last another few days. Love it! Scotch tape. What can't it do? ;)

Thanks for reading, and stay beautiful! xoxox

Weather or AHA Drying Skin Out At Night? - My Plan of Action

Before I started using my AHA souffle on my face at night, my routine would be to use Avocado Oil as my night cream. I would wake up with calm, happy hydrated skin. The advent of my using the AHA gel coincided with a drop in the temperatures. And I'm not positive if my drier skin in the morning is the result of one, or the other.

Now let me clarify. My skin isn't angry or itchy or gross in the morning. It's just that it used to have a very nice hydrated glow in the mornings. And now it's more matte looking.

So what am I going to do about it?

Tonight I went through my routine as usual ...eye serum, AHA souffle, eye cream, avocado oil...and on top? I put a layer of my Embryolisse Concentrate. I stopped using that stuff as my regular daily moisturizer because it was making my face too oily. Now I'm hoping it will act like a hydrating barrier to keep the avocado oil and moisture in.

Fingers crossed! Check back tomorrow for updates. Thanks for your time and stay beautiful! xoxox

UPDATE 1 - I like the results with this! I was worried the Embryolisse would break me out. But this morning my skin was hydrated and happy. I will continue to try this method and report back after a longer time period has passed.

UPDATE 2 - So a few days have gone by, and the Embroylisse started to break me out. Wah wah wah. *frowny face* So instead of using that as a top coat for my moisturizer, I've decided to double up on the avocado oil instead. I put on two coats of that oil at night before bed and it's been working just fine. I'll keep on that trend and report back when anything changes. Now if only the bumps from the Embryolisse would go away. ugh.

InMyKit.com

"In My Kit's" website is a buying guide for professional makeup artists. It has been around for years. The products they list are usually the best of the best, from cosmetic lines with products spanning a vast color range. Having a wide array of colors in a makeup artists kit is essential. That way if they're in a shoot and there's five girls with five ethnicities and color tones, the artist has everything they need on hand. Even though this site is geared toward the professional, and not the average Josephine doing her makeup in her bathroom, there are a lot of hidden gems on this site that everyone can benefit from learning about. Check it out and lock away your pocket book. ;)


/InMyKit.com

Five Things Friday

I've seen a segment on some of my favorite blogs that is incredibly inspiring to me, and I've decided to do my own version of it - Five Favorite Things. On fridays. Hence the name. ;)  I'll share with you the five things I'm most grateful for from this past week. They may be mundane or profound, beauty-related or not. Either way, they're my favorite things of the moment.

1. Maybelline ColorSensational Lipstick ~ Very Cherry #635

I am loving this lipstick. The formula is hydrating and the pigmentation is outrageous. It stays on all day with minimal upkeep. And the color? Universally awesome!

2. Makeuptalk.com/Forums

I found this forum when I was looking for sneak peek insight into the beauty box subscriptions I have. They are outrageously good at figuring out blurry photos. Quickly I realized the forums were chock full of insight and info and have fallen in love. I lurked for a long time and finally recently joined the rosters. I have not been disappointed. Seriously, I spend far too much time on these forums.

3. PG Tips Tea

When I lived in England, growing up, this was my favorite brand of tea. We would drink it in the mornings in lieu of coffee, and in the afternoon at tea time. Now, whenever I feel under the weather, I drink copious amounts of this tea. This past week I had my first nasty cold of the season, and have gone through insane amounts of this tea. Thankfully my aunt sends me new boxes when I run out. Love, love, love me some PG Tips.

4. Alpha Hydrox AHA Souffle

 I bought this from Walgreens. Honestly, I wasn't sure it would do much. After all, the price is half what I would pay for most AHA products. I've only used it for this week, but am loving the results so far. Even after one night of using this souffle, I've seen results and improvements with my skin. I'll do a longer more thorough review after I've used it for a month. That way I'll have a full picture of the results, problems, and have a solid opinion. But it's good enough, after one week, to put it in my favorites.

5. Racinne Ultimate Youth Power Eye Serum

I received this as a sample in my last Birchbox. The first night I used it, I noticed the skin around my eyes was very hydrated in the morning. I use an eye cream day and night, so to be even more hydrated is remarkable. The longer I use this serum, the younger my eyes look, and the more minimal my wrinkles and fine lines are getting. This week, as the benefits of using this serum are emerging, I'm particularly appreciative of this product.

So that wraps up my five things for this friday. I can't wait to discover five new things to share with you next week. Thanks for reading, for your time and stay beautiful! xoxox

Billy B: Someone You Should Know

One of those legendary makeup artists anyone who loves the art should know about. A great article from makeuptalk.com.

"Billy B, (or Billy Brasfield, if you're feeling formal) is one of the most legendary makeup artists in the world. Being cited as a profound influence to many makeup artists (myself included), Billy has earned his reputation in the world of both beauty and creative makeups. He's the mind behind most of Lady Gaga's signature looks, and has worked frequently with the likes of Beyonce, Britney Spears, Dolly Parton, Debbie Harry, and Mariah Carey. "

For more insight into an icon, follow the link --> HERE.

Sleep Curls

Tonight, for the first time ever, I'm going to try this sleep curl technique. It was a lot easier to do than I thought it would be.

Step 1: Part your hair down the middle into two sections, a left and right.
Step 2: Place a soft headband down over your hair, ala hippy 1960s.
Step 3: Take a piece of hair on one side at the front and twist it, then loop it up over the headband and tuck it back through so it's hanging back down.
Step 4 - whatever: Keep doing this from front to back on both sides until all of your hair is twisted and tucked up around the band.

I was surprised at how comfortable this is. I don't think I'll have any troubles sleeping tonight while wearing it. I'm interested to see just how effective this technique is. My hair is as straight as a rail, and rarely holds a curl. Fingers crossed and I'll report back tomorrow!

UPDATE - Well, shortly after I fell asleep my wrap must have fallen out. Because I have no curls and my hair is down. Hm, bummer. I'm going to retry this technique the next time I wash my hair. I'll just use bobbie pins to keep the wrap on. I will post the results at the bottom of this post, instead of starting a new one. Look back shortly for more info!

FRIDAY NIGHT, TAKE TWO - Alright, so I've got my hair twisted and wrapped around the headband. I have it pinned to my head at the temples with crossed bobbie pins. Fingers crossed that it stays in this time. I'll let you know in the morning!

I seriously need to get my point-and-shoot fixed. Sorry for the picture quality, but here's a look at the results. Firstly - success! The curls and wrap stayed in all night long. The curls are surprisingly tight and bouncy. I look poodle-like, which can be super cute. I haven't done much styling with the curls beyond playing with them. I want a true measure of how long they last. And honestly, the poodle-ness is just a result of how small the sections of hair were that I chose to twist. A bigger section would lend a larger curl.

Bottom Line - I would call this a success and I'll be playing with this technique in the future, using different sized segments. Next time I'll use my Living Proof Primer in my hair and see what it does to the curls. Again, sorry for the picture quality. I problem I will soon rectify.

Final Update - I am so impressed with these curls, that I had to take a picture before bed to share with you. Let me preface by saying that my hair is straight as a rod and never holds curls. Never. Even with hairspray I'm lucky to get a few short hours of curls before they always inevitable fall out. And it has been twelve hours since I unwrapped my hair this morning and, as you can see, I still have tight bouncy curls. I think they look better now than this morning. They're less fro-like and smoother and more beautiful. This technique is definitely a win for me. I would recommend that anyone interested in curls try it. It's been so fun having so much body in my hair for the entire day.

And here is the original Youtube video where I first heard about this technique. I love the "Cute Girl Hairstyles" Channel and if you haven't already, I recommend you check them out.

Free People

If I had the finances, I would gladly live entirely in clothing from Free People. Have you found them yet? Are you letting your boho inner-self shine? Consider me jealous. For Christmas I'm going to start filling my closet, one piece at a time. I think I'll start with...

An engraved metal cross-body purse. I am so in love with this.

Free People.com

#FreePeople #BohoChic #LoveAffair

Alpha Hydroxy Acids & You

I’ve been on a serious project lately to improve my skin. For the past few years I've been content to wash my face when I felt like it. I bought moisturizers for my face because they were inexpensive and not because they benefited my skin beyond hydration (and even that was questionable). I was happy to do nothing about the onset of early wrinkles. I was lax at best when it came to SPF. I did nothing to treat the rosacea that has appeared on my cheeks after my babies were born. Basically, for the past few years, my philosophy was that less was more when it came to messing with my skin. And I was wrong. As a result of my inactivity I was left with large pores, slack skin, blackheads on my nose and chin, wrinkles beyond my years, uneven skin tone and dry and dehydrated skin.

I've woken up from the miasma of the past few years of neglect and have for months now been on a solid healthy skin routine. I'm using products designed for my skin type, in the way they're intended. I wash my face twice daily. I exfoliate gently every day. I'm using face masks, serums and quality moisturizers. My skin has come a long way. But there's still further to go. In the course of my research I have come up with recommendations for AHAs again and again, with the promise to improve my skin in ways no other products can. Alpha Hydroxy Acids are touted as the number one ingredient in beauty products to help skin rejuvenate itself.  

But chemicals are a scary thing, I'm sure anyone would agree. So I've put together some of the things I've found about AHAs that I think everyone should know. I hope this helps you on your own journey, and making the decision on when and which AHA you want to put on your own face. Disclaimer, I am not a medical professional or your doctor. The information I'm providing was gleaned from sources online (listed at the end). Use the information only in the way it's intended, as a brief overview of a complicated subject.

Let's Start With An Overview of Your Skin's Structure, Chemistry and How It Ages.

On top of our epidermis (the outermost layer of our skin) is a layer called our ACID MANTLE. This mantle is an imperceptibly thin viscous fluid. Its job is to maintain and protect the overall health of skin and hair. So what is the acid mantle made of? Secretions formed by sebaceous and eccrine sweat glands. Sebum (the oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands) and sweat, (the salty, watery mix produced by the eccrine glands) blend and are further acidified by secretions from normal flora of the skin (bacteria known as Staphylococcus epidermis). The normal acid mantle for both skin and hair ranges between 4.5 and 5.5.

Sunlight, diet, excessive sweating and the application of skin or hair products can all lead to disruptions in the acid mantle. Disruptions in the acid mantle are bad.

Underneath the acid mantle, the epidermis is protected by an external layer of tightly knit cells arranged like shingles on a roof. Any disruption to the acid mantle, meaning an elevated overall skin pH, interferes with this protective barrier, wrenching cells away from each other. This can result in dehydration, roughness, irritation and noticeable flaking. Skin is left defenseless and susceptible to further environmental damage.

As cells pull apart, any breaks become exposed, leaving skin more vulnerable to bacterial invasion. Under normal circumstances, bacteria not only have a difficult time penetrating through the shield-like structure of the skin but the acid mantle also creates a hostile environment for bacteria, which prefer an alkaline environment to flourish. A rise in pH plays mayhem with our natural infection prevention, further increasing the risk of infection. Once the pH exceeds 6.5, bacterial invasion increases dramatically, a loss of normal skin integrity results and a variety of skin disorders such as eczema, psoriasis and irritant contact dermatitis flare.

So why mention the acid mantle and skin's PH in a discussion about AHAs?

Because we have to consider the entire design of our skin and it's innate protective barriers when deciding what products to apply, how to treat conditions that already exist and how to treat our skin best for long-term health and beauty benefits. For example…

The use of a cleansing agent that contains a buffered glycolic acid or other alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is a great way to keep epidermal cells lying tightly upon each other and skin glowing.

HOWEVER, as for hydration, if you already have parched, irritated skin, applying an acidic AHA product is not an option until you have soothed and settled with a "bland" moisturizing cream. After you've dealt with the healing phase, go into preventative mode and apply an "active" moisturizer, one chockfull of AHAs to help prevent dehydration, remove scale and maintain the acid mantle.

So what are AHAs?

AHAs are a group of organic carboxylic compounds. AHAs most commonly used in cosmetic applications are typically derived from food products including glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits) and tartaric acid (from grape wine).

For any AHA product you put on your skin to be effective, it has to penetrate into the skin where it can act on living cells. Bioavailability (the acid's ability to penetrate deeply into the skin's layers, influenced primarily by small molecular size) is an important factor in a compound's ability to penetrate the top layer of the skin. Glycolic acid, having the smallest molecular size, is the AHA with greatest bioavailability and penetrates the skin most easily; this largely accounts for the popularity of this product in cosmetic applications.

Once they're on our skin, what do AHAs do?

AHAs weaken the bond between living healthy cells just beneath the surface and the external layer of tightly knit cells that are mostly dead. This is a good thing, so that we can then more easily exfoliate the old dead skin cells. Then a new layer of tightly knit cells is formed on top that is thicker, stronger and better able to keep out bacteria and pollutants than the layer before it.

AHAs with greater ability to reach into the deeper layers of the dermis like glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid, used on photo-damaged skin, have been shown to produce increased amounts of mucopolysaccharides and collagen and increased skin thickness without detectable inflammation.

Glycolic acid works as an exfoliating agent because of its high acidity but easy solubility. When placed on the skin as part of an exfoliating cream or gel, it goes under the damaged upper layers of skin and destroys the 'glue' which holds dead skin to the surface. As this dead skin is chemically burned off, the other ingredients carry the individual flakes away and a water rinse neutralizes the remaining acid. The result is a much-smoother skin surface and a more youthful appearance. A secondary benefit is the product's ability to draw moisturizers into the newly-exfoliated skin surface. This is why cosmetic counters often sell a complete system of skin care; the rest of the alpha-hydroxy line contains moisturizers and neutralizers to counteract the corrosive actions of glycolic acid.

Cosmetic exfoliants and moisturizers containing glycolic acid may leave the user's skin especially sensitive to the sun, so many skin care experts recommend using a sunscreen after exfoliating with such products.

WebMD Describes AHA's to Be Likely Effective for:

·  Treating sun damage when applied to the skin in a cream or lotion, but alpha hydroxy skin peels do not seem to work for this use.

·  Treating dry skin when applied to the skin in a cream or lotion.

WebMD Describes AHA's to Be Possibly Effective for:

·  Acne when applied to the skin in a cream or lotion.

·  Acne scars when applied to the skin in a facial peel or lotion. Applying glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, as a facial peel or lotion seems to improve the appearance of acne scars. Applying 70% glycolic acid in a series of peels seems to work better than using 15% glycolic acid lotion daily. However, 15% glycolic acid lotion seems to be moderately effective in people who cannot tolerate facial peels.

·  Reducing pain and tenderness caused by fibromyalgia when a specific alpha hydroxy acid, called malic acid, is used in combination with magnesium.

·  Reducing the pigmentation associated with a skin disorder called melasma. Applying 10% glycolic acid as a lotion for 2 weeks followed by a facial peeling program using 50% glycolic acid every month for 3 consecutive months seems to reduce unwanted skin coloration in people with two of the three types of melasma, epidermal-type and mixed-type melasma. However, glycolic acid facial peels don’t seem to work for the third type of melasma, dermal-type melasma.

WebMD Describes There to Be Insufficient Evidence for:

·  Treating an inherited skin disorder that causes dry, scaly skin (like ichthyosis).

More evidence is needed to rate alpha hydroxy acids for these uses.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Chemical Peels

Some customers seeking a more complete exfoliation may opt for an AHA chemical peel. In general, a chemical peel involves a careful scrubbing of the skin followed by an application of a powerful AHA such as glycolic acid. Acid concentration levels in chemical peels can be as high as 50% or more. Even industrial suppliers of glycolic acid limit their concentration to 70%, so this is indeed a very powerful chemical process.

Quite often after a chemical peel, a patient's skin will look as if it were extremely sunburned. Several days of recovery are often necessary for a complete recovery from a chemical peel. Proponents of the process say that the process may appear dangerous or unsightly, but the results are worth the temporary discomfort.

AHAs in various concentrations are used in chemical peels. The concentration of the acid determines who can use it.

Consumer Level Products - AHA products sold to consumers must have a concentration of less than 10%.

In low concentrations, 5 - 10%, as is found in many over-the-counter products, glycolic acid reduces cell adhesion in the top layer of the skin. This action promotes exfoliation of the outermost layer of the skin accounting for smoother texture following regular use of topical glycolic acid (GA). This relatively low concentration of GA lends itself to daily use as a monotherapy or a part of a broader skin care management for such conditions as acne, photo-damage, wrinkling as well as melasma. Care needs to be taken to avoid irritation as this may result in worsening of melasma or other pigmentary problems. Newer formulations combine glycolic acid with an amino acid such as arginine and form a time-release system that reduces the risk of irritation without affecting glycolic acid efficacy.  The use of an anti-irritant like allantoin is also helpful. Because of its safety, glycolic acid at the concentrations below 10% can be used daily by most people except those with very sensitive skin.

Cosmetologist Level Products - Trained cosmetologists can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration of 20% to 30%. These chemical peels give results that are similar to microdermabrasion - erasing fine lines and giving the skin a smoother appearance with 1 to 3 applications. However, these treatments must be repeated every 3 to 6 months to maintain this skin appearance.

In higher concentrations, between 10 and 50%, its benefits are more pronounced but are limited to temporary skin smoothing without much long lasting results. This is still a useful concentration to use as it can prepare the skin for stronger glycolic acid concentrations (50 - 70%) as well as prime the skin for deeper chemical peels such as TCA peel (trichloroacetic acid).

Dermatologist Level Products - Doctors can use alpha hydroxy acid products that have a concentration of 50% to 70%. These treatments also erase fine wrinkles and remove surface scars, but the effects last longer - up to 2 to 5 years. The higher the AHA concentration used in a chemical peel, the more skin irritation occurs. At the 50% to 70% concentration, a person could expect to have severe redness, flaking, and oozing skin that can last for 1 to 4 weeks.

At highest concentrations, 50-70% applied for 3 to 8 minutes under the supervision of a physician, glycolic acid promotes slitting between the cells and can be used to treat acne or photo-damage (such as mottled dyspigmentation, melasma or fine wrinkles). The benefits from such short contact application (chemical peels) depend on the pH of the solution (the more acidic the product, or the lower the pH, the more pronounced the results), the concentration of GA (higher concentrations produce more vigorous response), the length of application and prior skin conditioning such as prior use of topical vitamin A products. Although single application of 50 - 70% GA will produce beneficial results, multiple treatments every 2 to 4 weeks are required for optimal results.^[8] It is important to understand that glycolic acid peels are chemical peels with similar risks and side effects as other peels. Some of the side effects of AHAs chemical peeling can include hyper-pigmentation, persistent redness, scarring, as well as flare up of facial herpes infections ("cold sores").

Choosing an Alpha Hydroxy Acid
Alpha hydroxy acids are found in a variety of skin care products including moisturizers, cleansers, eye cream, sunscreen, and foundations. Here are some guidelines to use when trying to decide which alpha hydroxy acid formulation to use:

·         It is best to pick one product that contains the proper formulation of alpha hydroxy acid to use as your exfoliant, and then choose other skin care products or cosmetics that don't contain alpha hydroxy acids to reduce the likelihood of skin irritation.

·         Using an alpha hydroxy acid in a moisturizer base may be the best combination of products.

·         Cleansers containing alpha hydroxy acids are least effective when hoping for anti-aging effects because the alpha hydroxy acid must be absorbed in the skin to work. Cleansers are washed off before this absorption occurs. Having said that, they do tighten the cells on the top layer of the epidermis which benefits the skin's hydration and keeps out unwanted bacteria.

·         At this time there are no effective products that combine alpha hydroxy acid and sunscreen, because sunscreen is not stable at the pH required to make the alpha hydroxy acid effective.

·         Sunscreen MUST be applied liberally when using an alpha hydroxy acid product. The sunscreen should have an SPF of at least 15 for UVB protection and contain avobenzone, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide for UVA protection.

·         Consumer level Alpha hydroxy acids work best in a concentration of 5% to 8% and at a pH of 3 to 4.

·         Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to provide concentration information on the label. As a general rule of thumb, having the alpha hydroxy acid listed as the second or third ingredient on the list makes it more likely it contains the proper concentration.

·         The only way to know for sure the pH of a product is to test with a pH strip.  

AHA Side Effects & Safety

Alpha hydroxy acids at a concentration of 10% or less as a lotion or cream are LIKELY SAFE for most people when applied to the skin appropriately and as directed. In some people, alpha hydroxy acids can make the skin extra sensitive to sunlight. Be sure to use a sunscreen while using alpha hydroxy acid products.

Alpha hydroxy acids can also cause mild skin irritation, redness, swelling, itching, and skin discoloration.

Facial peels, lotions, and creams with a concentration greater than 10% should only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. Facial peels can cause moderate to severe skin irritation, redness, and burning. Facial peels left on the skin for periods longer than recommended can cause severe burns to the skin.

According to WebMD:  Special Precautions & Warnings::

Pregnancy and breast-feeding: Alpha hydroxy creams at a concentration of 10% or less are LIKELY SAFE when applied to the skin during pregnancy and breast-feeding. But don’t take malic acid (the form of alpha hydroxy acids that is generally taken by mouth). Not enough is known about the safety of malic acid during pregnancy and breast-feeding.

Sensitive skin: Alpha hydroxy acids can worsen skin conditions by causing skin irritation and removal of the top layer of skin cells.

The Difference Between Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids

There is only one beta hydroxy acid - salicylic acid.

The main difference between AHA and beta hydroxy acid is their lipid (oil) solubility. Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble only, while beta hydroxy acid is lipid (oil) soluble.

This means that beta hydroxy acid is able to penetrate into the pore which contains sebum and exfoliate the dead skin cells that are built up inside the pore. Because of this difference in properties, beta hydroxy acid is better used on oily skin with blackheads and whiteheads and is often used to fight acne.

AHAs are better used on thickened, sun-damaged skin where breakouts are not a problem.

Sources
http://www.wisegeek.org/what-is-glycolic-acid.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_hydroxy_acid

http://dermatology.about.com/cs/skincareproducts/a/aha_2.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinegar#Apple_cider

http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-977-ALPHA%20HYDROXY%20ACIDS.aspx?activeIngredientId=977&activeIngredientName=ALPHA%20HYDROXY%20ACIDS